After 11 months spent in the southern hemisphere, it wouldn't be wise to go back home too quickly: that's why we're having a break in the tropics, in the North East of Thailand (Isan region).

Our first cultural shock isn't the one we expected: Jimmy, owner of the first homestay, is a bit... special... Because of what he eats (only sausage rolls, steaks and French fries), what he wears ( a very tight pair of shorts, sleeveless top, sports shoes, golden ring and watch) and what he thinks about Thailand. He's the king on the road and walks like "Super Mario". He's a " farang", a foreigner (he's English).

We collapse on our bed (this day has seven extra hours thanks to the jet lag) after a lovely meal cooked by Lamai, Jimmy's Thai wife. The next day, we start by a guided walk in the village (there's rice drying everywhere on the roads, it's harvesting time) before stepping into Jimmy's coach (golden, super posh and flashy 4WD, with air-conditioning) for the cultural side of the visit: a holy tree 'Sai Ngam', Phimai temple and the raised village of Ban Prasat (the elevation is due to the 4000 bodies buried there, the oldest are 3000 years).

Phimai temple (the smoke is coming from an anti-mosquito campaign) and Sai Ngam (the biggest banyan tree)
Phimai temple (the smoke is coming from an anti-mosquito campaign) and Sai Ngam (the biggest banyan tree)

You're full of energy when you start your day with toasted insects! The second day, we go to visit Lamai's family rice paddies where colourful combine harvesters are working at full capacity because of harvest rush. Growing rice is the main income for Isan region (the climate allows to cultivate rice only once a year, 3 months of work). To get some extra income, villages get specialised in crafts. Today, were going to a silk village where they do every step of the process: from breeding the worms to spinning the cocoons (boiled yellow bowls; the big worm inside is then good to eat...), from the weaving to the sewing of the fabric.

Rice mechanical harvest at Lamai
Rice mechanical harvest at Lamai
Silk, spinning and weaving and rice drying in the open air
Silk, spinning and weaving and rice drying in the open air

Until now it was easy because Jimmy was in charge of our activities. Now we take our "Lonely Planet" out, our best Thai (hello - thank you - good bye) and we "go wild" into Isan.

After six hours in a bus and 5 minutes in a tuk-tuk, we arrive unexpected at Pirom and Are Guesthouse. Pictures are worth a thousand words:

At Pirom and Aree
At Pirom and Aree
Sikhoraphum temple
Sikhoraphum temple
Phanom Rung and Muang Tam temples
Phanom Rung and Muang Tam temples
Manual rice harvest, rubber drying, rice husking machine (with an engineer looking) and many elephants (in Ban Ta Klang)
Manual rice harvest, rubber drying, rice husking machine (with an engineer looking) and many elephants (in Ban Ta Klang)

"The best broths are made in the oldest pots": is this idiom true for tourism? We've the answer with Pirom (71 years old), Sahing (retired since one year) his driver and a van which is at least 15 years old... We're going with them on a three day trip! Because "early bird catches the worm", at 8am, "on est parti" (they both like this French expression!). We tie a lucky charm (Phuang Malai) at the front mirror (traffic is a bit dangerous in Thailand) and we're ready to hit the road, direction the Mekong river.

In Ku Phra Ko Na (a Khmer pre-Angkor temple), Pirom teaches us a bit about Hindu mythology. During the visit, Sahing makes sure no monkey (and they are many) enters the van by a slightly open window. Still in our history lesson, we visit a second temple still in restoration (a few bits are here and there): Ku Ka Sing Khmer Temple.

Pirom, temples, monkeys and the 'Phuang Malai' (lucky charm with flowers)
Pirom, temples, monkeys and the 'Phuang Malai' (lucky charm with flowers)

Hearty lunch in a shed along a rice paddy: unripened papaya salad (with peanuts in Thai style or fermented fish in Lao style), sticky rice, pork, catfish, ... We eat with the fingers like a real Thai. ;) From a village to another, you speak Khmer, Lao, Isan, Thai or a mix of everything. Hopefully, Pirom, our guide and interpret saves us and we see bamboo weaving, drums and gongs making, ... From the second day, we won't leave the Mekong and there are many national parks on its border. Pha Taem and its cave paintings (from 1000 BC), Sam Phan Tok and its three thousands holes.

Gongs and drums, local curiosities and the shed in the rice paddy
Gongs and drums, local curiosities and the shed in the rice paddy
Pha Taem national park, a picture with Sahing and a Skylab (moto-tricycle) in Khong Chiam market
Pha Taem national park, a picture with Sahing and a Skylab (moto-tricycle) in Khong Chiam market
Gigantic climber, Thung Na Mueag waterfall, lunch for a king, harbour along Mekong river, peanut and a Buddha in building
Gigantic climber, Thung Na Mueag waterfall, lunch for a king, harbour along Mekong river, peanut and a Buddha in building
Sam Phan Bok and Phu Pha Toep national park
Sam Phan Bok and Phu Pha Toep national park

5 o'clock in the morning, we go to the local market where Pirom buys offerings for the monks. It's tradition to offer food to monks when they walk in the streets everyday at 6 in the morning. They were bit surprised to see foreigners offering their breakfast... Our schedule allows us a few minutes to see the sun rising on the Mekong with all the canoes from Lao going to the Thai-Lao market. After the visit of a few Buddhist temples and stupas (sacred towers), we end of tour in Nakhon Phanom, a city with Vietnamese influence where Ho-Chi-Minh planned Vietnam independence.

Our two Thai fellows are going back to Surin for the elephant festival while we carry on going North along Mekong river...

That Phanom market, Wat Phra That Panom (the 'tower') and a replica of Hô-Chi-Minh's house
That Phanom market, Wat Phra That Panom (the 'tower') and a replica of Hô-Chi-Minh's house