Or why the hell is this article published so late...

We want an interactive map: a challenge for the geek of the trip. And we also want small icons on which you can click, another challenge.

UPDATE : map was dropped, too difficult to maintain 4 years later

We are three for this trip with four devices that can take pictures: our little camera, Jenn's smartphone, Jenn's waterproof camera and Jenn's big camera (she's Asian ;) ). It means loads of pictures to sort! We sent a memory stick to Jenn in Amberley (South Island) and she sent it back to us, full of pictures and, as extra, sweets and biscuits from Taiwan.

Finally, close to the end, we unfortunately drop the tablet on the wrong side and the repairs are taking two more weeks. Besides this article was written on paper before being published :).

So that's the story behind the story... ;)

Transports

Bus

They are all different but it's easy to spot them. They are 'noisy as' with their engine running, their music playing or their honk used as a means of expression. They are as colourful as the fish and the driver may be sitting on the left or on the right (to get economically closer to NZ, the government took the decision in 2009 to drive on the left side instead of the right side, but some vehicles aren't up to date). Sometimes they don't even stop because they are too full ... It's the best way to join the crowd.

Ferry

Samoa is an archipelago made of ten islands. The two main ones are Upolu and Savai'i and a ferry can get you from one to the other in an hour.

Savaii

Joelan Beach Fale (11-08)

We unpack our bags in our first fale (little hut on the beach) : Joelan. The beach, the coconut tree, as many bananas as you want, we are delighted. Thanks to Ricardo knowledge (the Australian trauma surgeon, cousin to some degree to the family in charge of the fale), we dive without fear along the coral reef (Nemo would be jealous of it). Jenn got stunk by a jellyfish but hopefully doctor Ricardo is around (he is never very far) and squeeze a lemon on the wound to neutralise the venom.

Amongst the other permanent residents, there are two cats and four dogs. We fall asleep (and sometimes we don't) lulled by the sound of the waves which break right under our fale. We never miss the opportunity to loosen a coconut (and then have it open of course).

Salelonga (11-08)

If you're looking for something on Savaii, that's where you're very likely to find it. We bought there flip-flops, lava-lava, a recycled doormat, a SIM card, Samoan peanuts, chicken fritters, taro cooked with coconut cream, a bunch of bananas, a large wooden spoon.

It's also a meeting place with pool tables and Checkers. By the way, we met Joelan, his wife and Ricardo there. Jenn went for some shopping with her and we stayed to try 'kava' with the men. Kava is a drink resulting from the soaking of kava roots, it's drunk in a halved coconut shell and it numbs slightly your lips. It's supposed to intoxicate you like alcohol (except from the urge to pee, we didn't feel it) and you have to drink it bottoms up.

Lava Fields (12-08)

In 1910-1911, the main volcano on Savaii woke up and covered the area between its summit and the sea with a thick layer of lava. Thanks to the remainings of a buried church, we don't need to visit Pompei ;)

Da Crater Man (13-08)

Our first attempt to reach the crater in a standard car is a failure, the car was far too low... The next day, we're more prepared! We hire a so-called 4WD, the sticker 4WD was on the car but not the propelling mechanism. In the end, we got up the crater after a sporty drive on an uneven and steep track.

This track is "maintained" by a quite original chap: Da Crater Man. This kind of hermit lives almost in the crater and carefully records the country of every visitor. To date, more than 200 nationalities visited "his" crater and quoting him : " I don't go anywhere, the world is coming to me ". Except his cranky keeper, the crater isn't that special because vegetation is now covering all the slopes. You still have to be careful: if you fall, there will be no rescue!

Falealupo (13-08)

Afa Aau Waterfall (14-08)

The vehicle we were driving to go to this Waterfall was quite special: a mini-bus with 15 seats for the three of us only. How did we get there? It's a long story... Do you remember the car we hired (the 4WD which actually wasn't one)? The police stop us to tell us the insurance wasn't up-to-date, we don't get fined but we have to go back straight away to the hiring company to sort this "detail" out. Actually, it's only a problem of sticker which should arrive in the 2 o'clock ferry (this sounds a bit funny doesn't it?!). In the meantime, we can use the only vehicle available, a 15 seats bus.

Around 3pm, we're back with the bus. The sticker isn't there yet but maybe it will be in the 4 o'clock ferry? Well it won't! There's a document in the glove box to show that the car had got insurance. Why didn't they tell us that earlier?! After a check, there's is a document in the glove box but it involves a car with a different brand, model and colour. According to the rental company, it's not a big deal and, if the police catches us again, we should bring the cops to the office and they will settle the problem amicably because they're good friends... Anyway, we rented a car.

Satuiatua Beach Fale (14-08)

Blow Holes, waterfalls and crater (15-08)

A blowhole is a sink in a cliff next to the sea. When a huge wave comes, pressure is built in the narrow sink and water is blown outside in fine drops. When you throw a coconut in a blow-hole and there's a powerful wave, your coconut flies in the air. It's very funny! ;)

A last stop before bringing the rental car back: Tafua peninsula. We try not to get lost in the 100 metres of jungle between the road and another volcanic crater. Then, on the beach, we have a closer look at all the little shells and corals on the beach. We wanted to bring a few back but New Zealand takes very seriously the trade of endangered species and we have to leave our little pieces of dead corals at Auckland customs.

Upolu

Maota-o-Ma'a Beach Fale (16-08)

Red leather inside the car and a horse with blue wings on the bonnet of the cab that drives us from the wharf to Maota-o-Ma'a Beach Fale in Tafatafa. After a drive of one and a half hour, we arrive at our personal resort: we're the only guests! Alaimoana and his wife Lise kindly welcome us: our well-being is their main concern, they're really worried they don't feed us enough (they virtually stuff us!) and they're really proud of their local customs. Olivier received a traditional birthday barbecue for his 25th and a wonderful cocoa-coconut cake.

Before we leave for a day walk, we receive a coconut instead of a bottle of water: coconut water is rich with minerals and, once you drank the liquid, you can open the nut and eat the creamy inside for extra energy.

Advertising for people who would like to go to Samoa or for people who know people who would like to go to Samoa: you should really go to Maota-o-Ma'a Beach Fale because there's an amazingly warm welcome, you feel like you're part of the family, it's really quiet and clean, the food is sooo good and traditional,... It's really the best!!

Coastal Walk (17-08)

The food at Maota-o-Ma'a is far too rich. We decide to go for a walk to burn some calories. After our host kindly drop us along the main road, we walk 3.5kms to reach "the coastal walk". It goes on top of lava cliffs where massive waves crashed, eroding arches and blowholes. Temperature is rising and we open our first picnic coconut.

We walk back to the main road under a blazing sun (3.5kms again). We carry on with a walk through the jungle to the Ma Tree, an uncommon species of tree with huge roots.

It's still very hot and mosquitoes are attracted by our sweaty bodies. We carry on walking 3 kms in the jungle with a jump in Togitogiga waterfall as reward. To work up courage, we open our second coconut. This bath is "wonderful as"... We take the public bus back to Tafatafa where Olivier's birthday barbecue outweighs all our efforts. But never mind... :)

Apia (18-08)

All roads lead to Apia, the capital! We are supposed to go to Apia by bus but it is so fully packed with kids going to school that it doesn't stop... Hopefully a local offers us a ride by the longest way, going through almost half of Upolu (he have business to do). We're not in a hurry and we'll arrive when we arrive (Samoan saying).

We are going to Apia to meet Renée, the very nice friend of Jenn. She's half-kiwi, half-samoan and works as a vet on Upolu. She shows us every single corner of the capital: flea market, fruit market (everything is local of course: mangoes, star fruits, vi, cocoa and many more), pizzeria, yacht club restaurant (we wouldn't be able to afford one in Europe), coconut oil soap factory,... Well, everywhere! :)

Piula Cave (18-08)

Samoan culture is very Christian so we visit a few churches, or the natural pools next those churches instead. Piula is a Methodist Church and there's a pool carved into the rock. The water is so pure that you can see the fish swimming. The pool is also going into a cave, if you want to swim in the shade ;).

Our second stop is a waterfall located behind a Mormon church. The pool at the bottom of the waterfall is quite deep so you can practise your jump skills. If you don't move for a while, little fish come to massage/tickle you. We had this lovely paddle day thanks to Renée! :)

Manono (20-08)

Alaimoana and Lise drive us personally to the wharf for Manono Island. It's the third biggest island in Samoa but it's much smaller than Savaii and Upolu. Within two hours you can walk all around the island. Here, no cars, no dogs and no roaming cattle and pigs, they need to be in a pen or tied.

After a good night of sleep (already the last one in Samoa, snif), a shell-horn blows: it's breakfast time. Then traditional weaving show off and fire start without matches or lighter.

To complete our trip on Manono, we go on a guided walk to the top of the island. On our way, we try fresh cocoa beans (it doesn't taste like chocolate but it's still yummy!) and coconuts at different ripening stages. We also spot huge day bats and we listen to local legends like the man who had 99 wives and got killed looking for the hundredth (too much is too much! :p).

The plane with Manu Samoa (21-08)

A little bonus on the flight back: Samoan national rugby team, the mighty Manu Samoa, flies with the same plane as we do. They're on their way to England for the Rugby World Cup.