Networking is as efficient at finding a job as at entering an out of the beaten track wwoofing. It turns out that Susie's brother-in-law, Rob, lives in a remote and wild area where indomitable Maoris still hold out against the paheka ('of European descent') invaders. Tremble before us, all Tokomaru Bay weeds, we are on our way.

Mahia Peninsula
Mahia Peninsula

Family portrait :

  • Rob : splits wood like a hot knife in butter, beekeeper, orange and feijoa orchard manager, likes generous slices of bread with avocado and honey, All Blacks supporter (we saw our first rugby match with him [finally!], former sheep shearer and former champion of canoe racing.
  • An : schoolteacher, Maori with distant relatives in Spain, looks after the two dogs of the house, when she was a kid, used to cross rivers swimming hooked to the tail of her horse to fight the flow and Rob's joker when he doesn't know the answer of a crossword.
  • cKodez et Leia : An's grandchildren on strict board at Tokomaru, teenagers (so worried about their look), sometimes reluctant to bring wood in, wash the dishes, do their homework (mainly the genetic ones) or practice piano, like to use their free time to go on Facebook or record funny videos.
Hikuwai road
Hikuwai road
The dogs : Tarua (aka mummy, the mum) et Choro (aka fristouille, the socks borrowing baby)
The dogs : Tarua (aka mummy, the mum) et Choro (aka fristouille, the socks borrowing baby)

We are impressed from the beginning : our hosts take us to have a drink at the local rugby field, we are given crayfish for dinner (a gift from a Maori fishermen friend, the 8 were so fat it took two days to finish them), we have a go at the local cuisine : the hangi (see 'recipes')

Crayfish, avocados to share with the birds and some other stuff
Crayfish, avocados to share with the birds and some other stuff

But even in paradise you have to work : pulling tree-sized weeds, cutting wood, helping Rob taking care of the 200 hives. We spend the afternoons exploring the bay's around. Life seems easier as a wwoofer compared to the teenager one.

Cook's Cove Walkway
Cook's Cove Walkway
Tolaga Bay and the longest wooden wharf in the southern hemisphere
Tolaga Bay and the longest wooden wharf in the southern hemisphere

Our chariot gets no rest : during our stay we take 2 nights off to visit the East Coast

Key facts:

  • the area was far more busy in the 50ies thanks to the wool export and a lot of wharf, factories and pub remainings can be found in each bay (even one of the village names 'Waipiro' means 'beer' in Maori)

  • the East Cape lighthouse is the most eastern of its kind in the world meaning it is the first to see the ... light. Ascending the 500 steps is a pretty good way to start your day.
East Cape
East Cape
  • we park the chariot under the biggest pohutuka (it's a tree :) ) and come along some terrifying wooden carving at the entrance of maraes (Maori meeting house, you should definitely watch 'Whale Rider' ;) )

  • we stay the night in Waihau, the village where the movie 'Boy' took place. It's another movie we recommend : a moving and funny journey across the area
  • far away in the blur the last NZ active volcano was smoking on White Island
  • the Tauranga bridge walkway and its river crossings, so high we had to take our pants off
Tauranga
Tauranga
Opotiki surroundings
Opotiki surroundings
Gisborne, back from the East Coast
Gisborne, back from the East Coast

We are not trying to make you jealous but you should know that we are going to the Samoa islands for 10 days. Let's discover another Polynesian culture.

Gisborne again, on the way to the airport
Gisborne again, on the way to the airport