Eyre Peninsula

What makes a jetty so important for Australians? Historically, any self-respecting coastal village must, sooner or later, ask the government to build a jetty. Whether to export grain, ore (gypsum, dolomite, copper, ...), wool or import all essential goods not produced on site (canned food, sugar, soap, ...), it is a bit like the umbilical cord of the village. Without it, a small intermediate boat has to shuttle between land and the largest boat moored in the distance, a cumbersome procedure that's totally dependent on the mood of the sea.

The flourishing of the jettys on the Eyre peninsula began 150 years ago. Later on, roads developed and the sea was no longer the only mean to an important port such as Adelaide. These solid wood constructions, several hundred meters long, all different (sometimes straight, curved, with or without shelter) are gradually falling into disuse. Some, too weak, are shortened with dynamite. But the jetty is anchored in the hearts of the inhabitants. With petitions and fundraising, they get revamped. Today, this local heritage is mainly used for recreational purposes : since fish, crustaceans and octopuses like to wander between the posts that support the structure and that the average Australian is rather a maniac of fishing. Sometimes we go and see with our own eyes what swims there with mask and snorkel.

Eyre is the most imposing peninsula in South Australia. Its east coast, protected by the rest of the continent, offers many bucolic beaches, much appreciated under scorching temperatures. Sometimes even dolphins come to say hello ...

Like icing on the cake, the peninsula ends in a national park. After quaffing a pint at the local microbrewery, having a shower at the marina, here we are. An obelisk celebrating the explorer Matthew Flinders (who mapped almost all of Australia and moreover suggested this name for the continent), another lighthouse, emus on the go and cute kangaroos await us. The peninsula is very famous for its seafood. It turns out that Port Lincoln is the tuna capital of the world, this requires verification. The tasting of seafood continues and, at Coffin Bay, we take close interest in oysters. We put on waders and, after a brief historical introduction, we are all in the water to join "the aquatic bar". The oyster farmer introduces us to the basket culture: developed by an Australian, it spread around the world thanks to its efficiency but it couldn't get through French tradition. Learning to open the shell is undoubtedly followed by a tasting.

Katy ensures that the holiday remains epic: in a very peaceful seaside town, out of curiousity, she opens the box of the public defibrillator. The alarm goes off (there is an anti-theft device!). A distant neighbour comes running to the potential emergency. Another 100m more and we could have defibrilled this dedicated but not so young neighbour.

A little further, at Venus Bay, the recent (3 days ago) spotting of a white shark (only 3m long) does not calm our enthusiasm: a quick jump from the jetty is necessary and adrenaline does not fail to drive Olivier quickly out of the water.

We camp at the foot of "standing stones", here only nature carried out the job. Less than a few beaches and cliffs separate us from Ceduna, the end of the peninsula and also the first city after we crossed the Nullarbor, almost a month ago now.

What happy occasion brings us back to Penong? Do we want to show the windmill museum to Katy? Perhaps, but mainly we have an appointment with Bo, Maddie and Connor for an entertaining evening (Bo wanted to tackle Olivier at table tennis). History will not remember who won but our route continues the next morning towards the East and the Yorke peninsula.

Maybe you are wondering if we will come back soon? Our visa application for a second year was indeed accepted !!! Our adventures can therefore continue for a few more months ... 🥳🥳