Houston, we have problem. We are losing pressure : the Mentos, our coach, drove on a screw ... The puncture is the most common evil of Australian gravel roads. Moreover, it is advisable to travel not with one, but two spare wheels ... Fortunately, it all happened in the city center of Derby and we had just noticed that the tires were used worn out. Until the new ones arrive from Perth, we explore the small town of Derby, famous for its boabs (distant cousins ​​of African baobabs), its crocodiles (we did not see) and its Aboriginal artists.

Derby and boabs
Derby and boabs

Fit with new tires, we go deep in the bush towards Windjana Gorge. The Corsicans have their maquis, the Aboriginal people, the bush. Forced to work as slaves for European settlers, some aborigines rebelled. Jandamarra, one of the icons of this resistance, took refuge in this gorge and was killed not far away. On the natural side, the gorge is full of freshies [fresh water crocodiles] that languish in the sun and big bats hanging from the trees.

Windjana
Windjana

We have got a caves craving! Andy, our Aboriginal guide, takes us through one of them. It has been home to his tribe for at least 35,000 years. Before embarking on a guitar solo, he also tells us the legend of the blue lizard that shaped the region. Did you know?! According to local custom, a man is not supposed to speak to his mother-in-law and must go through his wife if he wants to ask her something or give her a gift. The why and how of this habit is lost in the meanders of History.

Mimbi Caves
Mimbi Caves

Very proud of his brand new campsite, Andy convinces us to stay there for the night. We take the opportunity to socialize with our fellow visitors. The camping meetings carry on and our potential address book is growing ... Most of our encounters are grey nomads. These pensioners, settled in the south, migrate north in their mobile homes and caravans over thousands of kilometers. They want to escape winter [ by australian standard] and enjoy the tropical temperatures.

If we keep being driven by our enthusiasm, we may end up on the east coast, a few thousand kilometers away. We put Mimbi Cave as a limit not to exceed, we then start the journey of return that looks rather long (equivalent to the distance Belgium-Moldavia) ...

Leaving Port Hedland, we see in the glow of the setting sun, an adept of thumbs up. Nemo (not the Australian clownfish) is Canadian. For logistical reasons, given the late hour and his high level of sympathy, he becomes our first extra-familial guest and is offered our luxurious extension, I named the swag.

Karatha and Dampier
Karatha and Dampier

North of Karratha, besides the huge gas complex that fills Australia's pocket, there is an impressive sample of petroglyphs. We spend two good hours scrutinizing these piles of big red rocks in search of engravings. We ended with around thirty petroglyphs identified among the million in the area.

Deep Gorge and its Petroglyphs
Deep Gorge and its Petroglyphs

Last off the beaten track stop : Millstream National Park offers all the comforts of a spa: springs, a (very) very large natural pool and retirees looking for adventure. The 16km ride on the trail of the camellers and diving into Python Pool half way quite stands out from the classic spa.

Millstream National Park
Millstream National Park

A small twinge of regret when we cross the tropic of Capricorn, finished the heat of these latitudes. Well, it's not yet the Arctic Circle, the mercury shows in the 30°C at Carey Downs, it's almost a bit hot to work.

Enjoy the end of summer in the northern hemisphere!