Pilbara and Kimberley (1/2)

Red is the color that represents this part of the world. All the rocks (or almost) are red. The dust we sweep, wipe and spray with WD40 in our Mentos, is red. Even the sunset is red: the weather is always good (it has been a long time since we stopped looking at weather forecast).

Feeling bold, we take the shortest route from Carey Downs to Karijini National Park: 850km of dirt road. Kilometer after kilometer, we look like the landscape: red, dry and very dusty. Halfway there is the largest rock in the world (as they say): Mt Augustus. Burringurrah is its little traditional name. As attested by the petroglyphs at the base of the mount, Aboriginal people have already known the place (as well as the rest of Australia) for millennia. At the break of dawn, we begin the ascent: early enough not to finish completely cooked by the sun but not too soon not to disturb the spirits that inhabit the rock at night. The result is a breathtaking view of the area followed by a well deserved rest at the campsite. Difficult to be antisocial, we are talking with almost everybody in the campground. We leave with an address in Esperance to volunteer on a farm and in Queensland for ... we don't know but the potential host just told us he had a pool, three surfboards, three kayaks and three mountain bikes :).

Still 500km before the asphalt, our wheels are not allowed to deflate (some of our rare "road mates" aren't as lucky). We arrive in Tom Price, gateway to Karijini National Parc. Red is beautiful, it can be dirty but it can also pay big. Iron ore is intensely exploited in the region. Notice to fans of big machines: trains up to 2.5km long, trucks with either 4 trailers or the mention oversized: sometimes too wide or too big or too long. Every time you wonder, what's the use of that thing on the trailer (and what if it has to go backwards). Being more interested in the untouched part of nature, we quickly reach the gorges of Karijini.

The best outfit to reach the end of the gorge is a swimming suit. After careful observation of the local fauna (it is full of tourists in the area), we change our hiking boots for sandals. The way down the gorge is quite steep and rocky. Once in the bottom, you're meandering, you cross the river, you skirt a basin ... Then you have to cross another pool to continue the walk. Sometimes you tell yourself at the beginning of the ride, it should do without getting too wet: misinterpreted! From you to me, undies do the same job as a swimming suit.

Well refreshed from Karijini, we carry on our trip to the great north. We gain 5 degrees in temperature and a potential new thrilling meeting: the crocodile. Swimming is now avoided in the sea and estuaries (except when there are 10 other swimmers/baits in the water ;)).

Broome and its iconic white sand beach where camels cradle tourists at sunset, it's too "mainstream" for us. We exchange tourists for birds and spend a week at Broome Bird Observatory. Far from the city, the unique noises in the evening are the sweet snores of our rare but friendly camping neighbours. We even volunteer for a shorebird count with binoculars and scopes. We admire a long-awaited monthly natural phenomenon : the staircase to the moon. Only a few days a month, when the full moon rises at low tide, its reflection on the wet beach takes the form of a staircase.The moon in our pocket, we are on the road again ... :)

PS: did you notice that Olivier went to the hairdresser? ;)